Hey y’all, how you fine folks doin’? What’s that you say? What accent? C’mon now y’all – I done always talked this way!

Sorry! It would seem that now that we’ve started venturing toward the south, my surroundings are getting the better of me.

Where do I begin? At the beginning of the week of course. As Kate informed y’all you all last week we left Charlottesville on Monday. We drove for a little while before hunger struck. We were lucky that we were able to stay under budget in Charlottesville so we took the opportunity to grab some food at the next place we’d be stopping. We looked up food options that might appeal to us and there was a really cute little shop called The Purple Foot which came across as a natural foods and health-centric store/restaurant. However when we got there we went in and were greeted by a 94 year old man who was just the sweetest. He apologized profusely, letting us know the kitchen had closed at 2 and as it was now a bit after 3 that we could no longer eat there.

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Saddened we left and ended up grabbing some fast food. We had parked at a Hardee’s, which is the east coast equivalent to Carl’s Jr. We had recalled that they had at some point in time sold Beyond Meat or Impossible burgers. When we stepped inside though we stared at the menu for a solid minute or two searching for the plant-based option. There wasn’t one. So we stepped out of line much to the dismay of the employee at the counter who had been waiting on us to make a selection. We agreed we’d prefer to head somewhere that had a different option available to us.

There is a trend we’ve noticed lately around this part of the country – no pedestrian friendly roadways. No crosswalks, No sidewalks. Just dangerous highway and road crossings. I like Frogger as much as the next person but playing it out in real life when you are the frog isn’t nearly as fun!

We crossed a couple streets to head over to a Burger King, which DID offer the plant-based burger patty option. Had a couple Impossible Whoppers and then headed back to the Hardee’s where our car was still parked. We had a bit of laundry to do and as we just a short couple of blocks away from a laundromat we headed over there next.

We knew we were out of quarters but this particular launderette listed online that they offered card payable machines. We loaded up a washer with our soiled sundries and tried to pay with a debit card. The tiny screen prompted us to wait while it tried to approve the transaction. It took a minute and then failed. We tried a different card. It took a minute and then failed. We tried a different machine. It took a minute and failed. We looked at each other in dismay until I suggested we head over to a nearby store to make a small purchase and get some cash back. We could then use the change machine in the laundromat. Kate came back with $10 cash and bottle of shampoo. She then walked over to the change machine …. it also did not work. Feeling shuttered at every turn I opted instead to walk half a block down the road to a CVS pharmacy, again having to cross a road with no pedestrian safety features. When I got inside the clerk told me she’d need to get manager approval to exchange $10 cash for a $10 roll of quarters. I overheard the manager begrudgingly agree, muttering something about “I don’t like to do it, especially on the weekends – but this should be fine…”

I made my way back to Kate quarters at the ready. We laundered while she started writing last week’s blog post. I read my book for a while instead of the casual anti-abortion magazines laying around. When our clothes were washed, dried, rolled up, and stuffed back into our backpacks we left and made our way back along the highway before stopping at another Starbucks for her to finish her blog post and for me to get some remote work done.

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We ended the night at the Fairfield Safety Rest Area right outside of Waynesboro, Virginia and not too far from our next destination, the Jefferson National Forest. Pretty typical maintenance day.

Tuesday we got up and prepped ourselves some oatmeal and coffee. A pair that has become a breakfast staple for us. We scuttled down the road to fill up our gas tank before heading up into the mountains. Another day of terrible wind, rain, and foggy driving. We broke through the squall and made it out to a place called The Pines Campground. It was beautiful. Leaves slowly falling and laying a patchwork quilt of autumnal colors on the ground as if to tuck the woods into a cozy bed before the winter comes. Also, a fire pit with a random assortment of trash left behind by the previous occupant. Truly natural beauty at its finest. It was however beginning to drizzle rain again. We hopped back into our mobile shelter and took the time to read our books for about an hour or two. When it looked as though the rain was dying we got out to make some late lunch / early dinner.

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After eating we felt it’d be a good time to go for a hike in the surrounding woods. We checked the camp map at the entrance and saw a trailhead listed as being just a short ways down the road. We began to walk down the street when we noticed a bit of litter along the way. Wanting to leave our environment cleaner than we found it we picked it up. Then we picked up some more. Then we found a plastic bag… then we filled that plastic bag with more garbage and recyclables. When we got to the trailhead a grand total of a quarter-mile down the road we were a little disgusted and saddened at how much we were able to find in such a tiny section.

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We set the bag of refuse down near the trail head and started up the trail. We didn’t make it very far as it seems this trail was entirely overgrown with nettles, barbs, branches, and plants that look suspiciously like poison ivy. I’m not sure they were but there were clusters of 3 leaves which I know is a sign to be wary of. We turned around and walked back to the campsite, grabbing our garbage sack to take with us. When we got back we sorted the garbage at the entrance and then walked up to the car where we had a roll of extra trash bags. If we couldn’t go for a nature hike, we might as well use the extra hiking energy we had to do some good. We walked up the road in the opposite direction of the trailhead we had abandoned, each with a bag in hand. We filled those trash bags too. With vehicles roaring by in both directions I could only imagine we looked like prison workers.

When we walked back to the campsite for the second time, we again sorted trash from recycling and then headed up to the car. An elderly gentleman in a campsite a bit closer to the road motioned to me and asked if it had been us that was just down on the street picking up trash. When I informed him that it indeed was, he thanked us and said he’s been coming to that location with his family for nearly 50 years and rarely ever does he see anyone bother to clean up after themselves let alone others. Just an incredible amount of trash and recycling.

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We cooked ourselves some dinner of potatoes, onion, corn, and tomato soup then relaxed while eating dinner, listening to our audiobook. It was time for bed and we got some much needed rest!

The next day we packed up the car after a late breakfast of oats and coffee, and laid a tarp down inside the car for us to haul away our giant trash bag of recyclables as there wasn’t a receptacle for them up on the mountain. We drove a while longer still into Roanoke, Virginia. What a great little city. On the way into town you’re greeting by large vintage neon signs, including a kettle filling a coffee cup and a Dr. Pepper clock. We grabbed a parking spot in the downtown area and walked over to the central market. A few stores and food stalls inside, but nothing really grabbing our attention. As seems to be common around lunch time, we opted to get lunch rather than find a park bench to cook at. We stopped at the Fork in the Market. As we finished eating we asked the server how he felt about living in Roanoke. He complimented the nearby hiking and countryside and lamented that other than the giant neon star halfway up the mountain, there weren’t really any major attractions here. We thanked him for the info and agreed that we’d need to go see this thing up close.

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So we headed up to Mill Mountain Park. At the top is a neon star standing nearly 90 feet tall, which when lit sucks down 17,500 watts of electricity to illuminate its 2000 feet of fluorescent beauty. It’s a big star. There is an overlook that gives unmatched views of the entire valley and all nearby mountains. There is also a webcam to show views from the overlook for the whole world to see. We goofed around up there for a while and walked the path of the adjacent park before heading back down. It wasn’t quite sunset yet and we wanted to see the star illuminated so we drove back downtown and grabbed a couple drinks at the Three Notch’d Brewery location here in Roanoke. Once night was upon us, we left the taproom and walked back to the car. We took an indirect route just so we could catch a view of the kettle and clock while they were also illuminated. We ended that evening by heading out to the Ironto Rest Area for bed.

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Another morning, another preparation of oatmeal and coffee. A small issue had formed though. We have been finding ourselves not enjoying the oats and coffee lately, and it isn’t because we’re sick of having them nearly daily! The last place we filled our giant water jug was a rest area one or two states back – and to our displeasure, the water tastes really metallic. We had our fill of funky oats and coffee this morning and made it our plan to grab a quick breakfast somewhere along the day’s route.

What a route. Today’s journey would be 8 hours and 15 minutes of total driving time. First thing first, we needed to head up into West Virginia. We are shooting for all 48 contiguous states, remember? So we set our eyes an hour and 15 minutes away on a little town called Bluefield, West Virginia (which I’m sure you have all heard of). You know, America’s air-conditioned city! The one with the clock! …right?

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On the way out of Bluefield we stopped for that quick breakfast at Tudor’s Biscuit World! We got a double order of Dottie’s and some coffee as well. Then it was back on the road for a loooooong stretch as we drove for Lexington, Kentucky which was another 5 or so hours away – 5 and 1/2 with traffic. We listened to a LOT of our audiobook this day. Maybe too much.

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When we finally got into town we headed first for a Planet Fitness. This time, no exercise – just showering. I was just too tired. Driving all day takes it out of you. Lucky for us, we saw a billboard advertising the last few days of “The Races” and as we were in Kentucky – we HAD TO GO! Now you all may be saying “The Kentucky Derby happens in May.” But if that is the case how did we get these amazing pictures of our very own plastic toy horse China racing? Hmm!? She did so well, she even won! Pictures for proof below.

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Anyway… we walked from Planet Fitness over to Noodles and Co. to grab a quick dinner. We considered just sleeping there in the PF parking lot but instead headed back out onto the road to a rest area situated much closer to our destination for the next day. Another hour and change of driving and we pulled into the freeway-adjacent parking lot and almost immediately fell asleep!

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We woke up and cooked some oats, using water from our water flasks rather than the big jug. Noticed that across the freeway was a billboard featuring Moscow Mitch, which was surprising as we were still in KY and would not expect them to blatantly attack their own representative like that. After eating, we cleaned and packed up and hopped back into the car to drive a short distance down the road to today’s destination –

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Mammoth Cave National Park!

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Oh man, I have wanted to do something like this ever since I was a little kid. When we were planning this trip months and months, essentially a year ago – one of the few things I vocalized immediately that I would want to do was explore a giant cave system. The two at the top of my list were Mammoth Cave and Carlsbad Caverns. Now before we get to spelunking, let me mention that even back then Kate had expressed some trepidation about venturing down into the ground. Along the trip we had seen advertisements for other caves that you could visit and explore and every time I would point one out with a tinge of excitement in my voice it would be met with a reluctant “Huh? Oh yeah, looks like it is a cave.” …not quite the enthusiasm I would hope for. I had secretly been fearing that she might want to back out of the whole cave experience all together. As she would say “it isn’t that I’m claustrophobic, it is just that I’m a little claustrophobic.” However, as the day was upon us – she explained that she just did NOT want to have to crawl along on her hands and knees or feel the deep dark earth squeezing her sides as she wriggled through a hole.

I understood that. Makes sense. I mean, it sounds fun to me but I recognize not everyone has the same type of fun. Luckily though, when we got to the visitor’s center the ranger at the info desk let us know that there would be some crouching and bending and maybe even a little bit of turning sideways to shuffle through a narrow passage but no hands and knees. Still a little nervous Kate agreed to go down into the longest known cave in North America with me. Over 400 miles of caves twisting and winding through 49 square miles of land.

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Mammoth Cave is not known for its formations of stalactites and stalagmites, only for its immense size. Yet there is one section of the cave that does have these features – and that is the tour we went on. The Domes and Dripstones tour. Descending roughly 250 feet under ground, single file down narrow staircases and then slowly working our way back up toward the surface along a 3/4 mile long path we were guided into rooms large enough to hold hundreds of people, maybe thousands. The end of the route ends at the “Frozen Niagara” section where the iconic cave formations are. Stupendous! Hundreds of thousands of years of history laid before you. Slowly building and changing the environment. It was fascinating. Even Kate thought so. When we got back out to the surface I turned to her and said “I’m SO glad we got to do this!” She replied with “Me too, once we were down there it really wasn’t too bad.” Easily one of the highlights of the trip for me so far. Then we got ice cream!

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After the caves, we made our way into Bowling Green, KY – home of Corvettes and Cage the Elephant. We grabbed some dinner at a Mexican place called ‘El Mazatlan’ where we enjoyed a very-reasonably-priced pitcher of margaritas! Having stuffed ourselves on vegetarian enchiladas and bean burritos, we left and made our way to another rest area for our night’s sleep. A pretty great Friday if you ask me.

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Saturday brings us into Nashville, Tennessee! First though, a stop in Clarksville, TN to get an oil change. We knew we’d be getting an oil change so we planned on grabbing a light breakfast near the Jiffy Lube. As we pulled up, the attendant told us the wait time and general ballpark price of the service. “Okay, sounds good.” I replied before continuing, “Oh, just as fair warning – my key fob broke about a week and a half ago and so you’ll need to start the car with this pair of pliers.”

He stared at me for half a second before saying “Ahh, broken Toyota key eh? The kind where it splits and is only half a key?” …WHAT!? Is it that common of a problem? Is there a class-action suit in the works?

Feeling assured that he could handle starting the car with a pair of pliers, I let him know we had planned on getting food nearby. So we left the car with them and cross over to a nearby Starbucks before agreeing that we wanted something a bit more substantial, so we left without ordering and ran across another pair of pedestrian unfriendly highways. We went over to a nearby IHOP where we were told it’d be at least a 20 minute wait. We left and walked across another road in search of somewhere else to eat. After bouncing from place to place for about 10 minutes, we crossed back over to the ‘bucks deciding we’d just get coffee until we got the car back. Then it’d be off to wherever we wanted for breakfast.

That takes us to W A F F L E H O U S E. A staple in the American south. Quick diner fare done right: greasy. We got hash browns loaded with cheese, grilled onions, tomatoes, mushrooms, and (for myself) jalapeños. All for under $10. Can’t beat that!

Now where was I? Oh yeah – Nashville, the Music City. We drove into town and as it was the weekend before Halloween we were in search of something SPOOOOKY to do. When searching the internet for free spooky events in Nashville I happened upon The Groove’s Spooky Thing! The Groove is a killer little record store in East Nashville. A converted house, it features rooms of new and used vinyl, cds, and tapes. It also has vinyl art, and posters, and everything else you’d want a cool record store to have. Out back they have a stage and today was their spooky festival thing. A free local music festival with artists and vendors and free beer!? What a fun place to chance upon. We stuck around for about an hour and half, listened to the performance of a band called Antler Hopkins and browsed records before leaving to find our midday meal.

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This time we ventured over to a spot called Graze Nashville featuring an all vegan menu. We sat and ate, watching the sunset. I had the green chile burrito, and Kate had a hot tempeh sandwich. We also had an order of Szechuan brussel sprouts. Delicious, every bite. After that we headed into town to catch some more live music. This time opting to visit a bar called Losers, located right next to a bar called Winners. We had a drink and did some people watching. Lots of drunk people in wacky Halloween costumes pouring into the bar and then back out onto the street again. After a little while, we too decided we’d had enough of this bar and walked down the street a half block to another one called Hopsmith. We went upstairs and sat around here for a while too. Much more relaxed environment here though. When it came time to wrap up the night, we drove over to Centennial Park. There is a road right next to the park that allows people to overnight park hassle free. What a relief to be able to sleep in the city and not have to worry about being bothered.

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The next morning we got up and again had oats and coffee before walking around Centennial Park. A full-sized replica of the Parthenon is here as well. From there we drove back over toward East Nashville just on the other side of Nissan Stadium where the local NFL team, the Titans, play. There was a game today, which wouldn’t have mattered to us at all except that we wanted to cross over this big ol’ pedestrian bridge that offers great views of the city. The problem was that the bridge is right next to the stadium and due to the game, parking anywhere nearby was a nightmare.

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We ended up parking a few blocks out in some small neighborhood next to a community church. We walked the few blocks back to the bridge and then over into downtown. The afternoon was spent in and around downtown Nashville, which is basically ‘Country-Music-Themed Las Vegas’ …honestly it was kind of disappointing. Giant themed restaurants and bars everywhere but instead of gambling, they offered country artists playing covers. I could imagine people from the south, or anywhere else that country music is so very popular, flocking here and being amazed with everything it had to offer – but being raised in the place that I was I was just left feeling like it was a tourist trap running on reputation more than actual charm. Oh well. We walked around for a bit and then decided to cross back across the bridge again to get back to the car.

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The. Game. Had. Ended.

We became salmon. Fighting to get upstream of tens of thousands of people pouring out of the stadium and crossing the same bridge we were on, only going the other direction. When we finally got back to the car we had to fight post-game traffic for another hour, being rerouted 4 or 5 times throughout the downtown area just to get onto the freeway to lead us out of town.

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We’ve made it to Murfreesboro, TN, and that is where I am writing to you from. We ate dinner at a buffet style place called Farmer’s Family Restaurant, which is kind of like a Golden Corral. We’ll likely end up driving a bit more after this gets posted to end up near Chattanooga, TN where Kate will pick up next week. As for now, that’s all from me.

Y’all come back now, y’hear!?